The end of the world - the northernmost lighthouse of continental Europe (and the continental world), was really .... at the end. At the end of the road 888 and also at the end of my strength.

But we made it! After Cabo da Roca near Lisbon/Portugal, we have now also made it to the northernmost lighthouse and the northernmost point of our tour. And we are really proud of that!

As one long-distance hiker we met this week put it, "When I travel, I experience the best moments, but also the worst." Joy and sorrow often lie side by side. You never know what you're going to get next, but we agree: this trip is worth it - for the good days and the bad - because these are the stories we'll be telling for the rest of our lives.

Saturday 19.08. - Ida's Day of Horror

- a guest article by Tilman -

Early in the morning we woke up, because it jerked at our tent. Apparently, the wind had turned and so we quickly dismantled that so we have our tent a little longer in one piece. With two breads with peanut butter and jam in the stomach and a little more rain in the face than one likes in the morning, we drove off quickly, because it was also cold. The landscape was strange. "As on the moon" was very appropriate: monotonous, stony, life-feverish. The wind whipped sometimes from the right, sometimes from the left, or from the front against us, and now and then we got wet again. And then came the first descent! Into the valley that connects the northernmost peninsula with the mainland. The connection was narrow, at that time the Germans wanted to blow it up; didn't work out and so we could cross. In the valley it was directly warmer and we hurried to our hope: a dry toilet, according to the map heated. Why there are heated toilets everywhere here? With the wind, the roads are so quickly covered with snow so that you can only drive them at certain times. At those times, a snowplow comes, clears the road in front, and then all the collected cars follow behind in a column. And then the barrier closes again, and in case of doubt one must wait then 2-3 hours, preferably halt, in a not frozen toilet. But unfortunately it was apparently not yet cold enough, thats why the heating was off. And so we had to continue directly. Again up the mountain. Our last climb before Mehamn, again up to 300m. The rain gave us a short break until we reached the top and then it started again. There is nothing up there: no house, no tree, no bush, no shelter to take a break. And so we had to go on, 40km wet and cold. At some point a river appeared to our left, but fortunately it flows into the sea, so we knew that we were going downhill rather than uphill. Ida was but finished with the nerves. The rough landscape and the wind had polished her bare. In tears, we drove to Mehamn, where we could briefly grab a little piece of sunshine.

It went directly to the library to warm up. Unfortunately, the library was being renovated... And so we ended up in a coffee, with a cup of warm cocoa while we thought about what to do next. Ida directly asked the neighbors (Germans with a van) if they could take her over, and they agreed. Unfortunately they wanted to go back that day and so shortly before the lighthouse at the end of the world we did not want to give up. But encouraged by the kindness, the knowledge that it's still possible to somehow hitchhiking back, we went out again and made our way to Gamvik. 25 km and 400 meters of elevation divided into 3 hills separated us from the lighthouse, and motivated by the sun's increasingly frequent rays, we drove slowly but steadily up the first two mountains. But just as quickly as the sun appeared, it disappeared again and the rain returned, easy it should not be after all.

But with only one mountain missing, we ignored the rain, sped down to Gamvik, startled the reindeer that frolicked on the streets of the small town, and turned left at the other end to head for our last stop: Slettnes. 2 km later we spotted the lighthouse. We didn't care about the wetness, ignored the wind, and barely noticed that the pavement turned gravel for the last kilometer. The village was hardly one: the lighthouse and 3 buildings stand here; at that time probably the house of the lighthouse keeper, today a closed cafe and a not bookable accommodation. But that did not bother us. We had made it! To celebrate, we had digestive cookies and peanuts in the lee of the building.

At some point, a few campers came by in search of the closed café (or of course in search of an open café), and as you do when you see hungry campers, we offered them food. Thereupon we were invited into a warm and above all dry camper. After a long evening with lots of tea and even more cookies we pitched our tent in the lee of the camper. We had also thought about a special dinner: Risotto with moose meat. And so we fell into bed, ready for the adventure of the return trip the next day.

Sunday 20.08.

For reasons still unknown to me, Tilman managed to stay in the land of dreams. At least one. In the meantime I lay awake almost the whole night and listened how the wind in the gusts of approx. 35 km/h tugged at our tent. But it held! Respect for it. Around 08:00 we started to pack our things. I noticed what the strains of the last day and the night made with me. Hopefully we will somehow manage to get my bike over these two plateaus! Andreas and Monika were also already awake and offered me a coffee - liquid sleep is better than none! Due to the lee of the camper we could also take down the tent reasonably well without it flying away. Now it was time to leave. From the end of the world. From Slettnes fyr. Always in the direction of home!

Something gave me the strength to drive the 20km from Gamvik to Mehamn, where we hoped to have a better chance of getting a ride. Tilman did a great job and patiently drove up and down the mountains beside me.
And somehow, slowly but surely, we arrived in Mehamn. Since there weren't that many roads here either, we positioned ourselves right at the intersection where the campers had to pass us when they left town. One with a German license plate was parked in front of the Coop supermarket and the owners soon came back from their walk as well. Meiken and Martin. They had passed us a few times before and we got to talking. Of course I asked if my bike and I would fit in. Turned out to be difficult anyway, since they were only going halfway across the plateaus. The one road of the island had exactly one turn and they took it. So unfortunately not an option for us. We still enjoyed their company and conversation. After internal agreement they offered to pay the expensive campground in Mehamn for us if we do not find another option. Just to get some peace and quiet for a night. They pressed a bill into our hands with the promise that we would send them a postcard. Normally we don't accept money, but this situation was very special and we are so happy to meet such fabulous people. It makes you believe in humanity again!
After they drove on, we positioned ourselves a little more sheltered from the wind.

From a distance, we saw a car with a trailer. So I went out from our hiding place and held my thumb out. The two gentlemen in the car were about our age and I explained the situation. The two chatted briefly with each other in Norwegian. They were also just now driving to the other village, but would be back in the evening and drive all the way to Bekkarfjord to take us across. In the meantime we do not have to sit in the cold, but could wait in the brothers the apartment. So they transported us and the bikes to the brother and drove on. I was so incredibly relieved not to have to ride those "plateaus of horror" again. The warmth in the apartment and the cozy sofa did the rest and I was almost immediately in the land of dreams! My head and body were so done that I was woken up at some point by Tilman, so that I could still sleep in the evening. Otherwise I would have slept guaranteed also for more hours. In the evening the two came back, loaded us, the things and the bikes and we drove over the two plateaus. These showed themselves from a completely different side than days before. Less wind, rain and above all we could see something. Now we also know what the other two campers before us already meant: here it looks like on the moon!

In Bekkafjord we talked a bit and I found the two, Ben and Atla, two incerdibly nice people and our resuce. They didn't condemn me at all for not having made it all the way back, but said they knew how hard and rough the north can be. It would have brought many others to their knees.
Have you ever wondered what people do for a living here at the end of the world? Ben is responsible for the column services in the winter. Atla was a fisherman. Not only on the high seas, but also in the numerous lakes that are located on the plateaus.
We said goodbye to the two and set up our small night camp in the warm and protected anteroom of the toilet. We are not that demanding after all. A warm and safe night from the elements is certainly good for us too!

Monday 21.08.

During the night and in the morning only two people came in to visit the toilet next door. Our night camp they fortunately took with humor and wished us still a good night.
When we packed up in the morning my heart slipped into my pants. The seat cushion from the recumbent was no longer there. Had we lost it during transport? Luckily Tilman had taken a picture before we left for Mehamn. There it was already gone. Then we must have left it in front of the Coop because of stress... but how do we get back to Mehamn? By hitchhiking (through the galaxy... ähhh wasteland)!
The first car I stopped took me right away. Actually he only wanted to go to Kollefjord, but he offered to take me to Mehamn as well. He was on his way to the opening of the new school, where he was responsible for the band and the sound. We chatted super much and it would certainly go beyond the scope to report everything, so I keep some things briefly by bullet point: "Normally, no one travels hitchhiking across the peninsula. And if, then it is something urgent", the road exists only since the end of the 80s, before that all places were connected by boat, Kollefjord is a super culturally active city, Norway is so safe - especially compared to the U.S., many go fishing not only in the sea but also in the lakes of the wasteland, the best berries can be found on the islands.
I found it almost a pity to arrive in Mehamn. Luckily the pillow was still there in front of the supermarket. So now I just had to find an opportunity to go back. That was not long in coming. After a Norwegian went for shopping, he took me at least half the way back before he had to turn off. He told me a lot about reindeer and that they should start soon to move further south - like us! Between the plateaus I waited and saw from above already a new car driving down. Heidi took me with pleasure the last km to Bekkafjord. This morning she thought that she would be willing to take a hitchhiker today. My luck. She told me that the children in school have the opportunity to learn Sami again, after the generations before were forbidden to speak this language.
At some point I arrived back at Tilman's place, who had already prepared everything for our departure.
Around 11:00 we got going. Norway showed itself today from a completely different side: Sunshine and light wind! At the coast we sometimes did not know in which country we were. Norway or maybe Greece?

With the last days in mind, we wanted to take it easy today and drove only about 60km to a rest area. There we found a Finnish couple with dog, car and tent. Thus started a beautiful, colorful evening, which we enjoyed very much!

Tuesday 22.08.

The colorful evening of yesterday expanded into a colorful morning the next morning. Mala, the snow-white, fluffy dog was also very happy about the colorful hustle and bustle. It was so beautiful that we of course left later than expected.
Finally Norway showed itself from its best side. Sunshine and best views of the sea and the opposite fjord sides. Today we even had a really nice plateau! With trees, bushes and reindeer, especially sunshine it is even really beautiful! The mountains put themselves in the background well and somehow it could have been just as well northern Spain!

We encountered few people in the car or campers, but more often "clearing vehicles", which kept the hard shoulder in shot.
The strains of the last week still in the luggage we decided for once to head for a (affordable) campsite in Lekslev - the best decision! Super nice and cozy campsite and we even got a discount. We could prepare our food in the kitchen, which we had for ourselves. Everyone else wanted to have their "outdoor kitchen experience" of course, while we were happy to cook in a warm kitchen after 3 weeks in the wilderness. And the hot shower - unimaginable! All the dirt and the exertions were washed down and the good was kept. There was even a hair dryer! So satisfied: physically and mentally. There we fell asleep almost immediately when we touched the sleeping bags.

Wednesday 23.08.

At the campsite we used the kitchen to make porridge - with somewhat warm in the stomach cycling is much better! Of course, this also made us start late again...
But from now on it's pretty straight south, towards home! That feels good!
Unfortunately, we had to follow the E6 for about 70km and share the road with more cars again after a long time. The landscape was epic. For us it went neatly up and down, but right and left offered brilliant views of the valleys between the mountains.

Arriving in Karasjok, at our turn off the E6, we were taking a chocolate break on the bench when another cyclist joined us. Also from Germany, of course. Not 10 minutes later, another Norwegian/Este joined us and said in 20 km he had a cabin with sauna and he invites us all. Can you say no?
20 km later we all three then arrived and pushed our bikes into the forest. Super sweet! We ate dinner together, went to the sauna and many once again exhausted and incredulous in bed.

Thursday 24.08.

The mornings that start with pancakes and cocoa are the best! This morning we even had special pancakes. Made with a monster of zuccini. But super yummy! We had cocoa with chili and ginger and the only thing that topped it all was the fact that it was raining outside and we were sitting inside, dry in front of the warm stove.
When we pushed our bikes back to the beginning of the road over hill and dale, it had also stopped raining and the water from above came back only sporadically during the day. We said goodbye to the Estonian and Eva, the other cyclist, and went our way.
The landscape was extremely beautiful, but we were also glad to make some kilometers, otherwise it would probably be too monotonous in the long run. Today there were still some meters of altitude to cover.
When we took a chocolate break, a car suddenly stopped next to us. And guess what: Ben, the Norwegian from Mehamn, who together with his brother drove us over "the plateau of horror". Apparently we had forgotten our bike lock in the first trailer and he was in the area anyway. Looking at the map, he saw that we were not that far away and just followed the road. Our Norwegian angel!

When we hit the E45, we met another touring couple who seemed to be in a hurry. Meanwhile we climbed one hill after the other and finally arrived in Kautokeino. There we had juice and chocolate from the supermarket. In front of us were familiar bikes: the two Belgians from this morning were probably also just shopping and we got into conversation. They wanted to go here to the campground and we wanted to go further. So our ways separated again.
We found a really nice place at the lake - even with a trampoline to jump in. But the water was a little too cold for us.

Friday 25.08.

Also in the morning we could not quite convince ourselves to jump into the cold water. Well in Umeå we hopefully get a warm shower again...
Motivated by the city cycling and the endless landscape, we had big goals today!
Also the dark clouds that were behind us all the time let us ride faster and at the end of the day it only pissed on us from time to time.
Except for this achievement there was also not much exciting on this day. We crossed the norwegian-finnish border to the song "Norwegian Reageton" and after 140km we found a nice campground on a clearing in the forest. Further down there would have been a beach at the river but there were already too many campers.
A luck, because a little later in the evening one heard below young people who made with their motorcycles neat noise.