This week, Ida and I made a big jump on the map while enjoying the view of many beautiful villages and the monotony of the pine forest.On Saturday (September 17th) we had one goal: the Île de Ré.
However, everything is only half as nice on an empty stomach and so we went to the boulangerie again to organize one pain au chocolat. It was so delicious that it turned into eating two of them. Much happier we went on and saw a traffic jam. Luckily it only involved the road, and after overtaking masses of cars in our bike lane, we also found the cause: lots of vacationers waiting at a gas station and blocking the roundabout. Once again, we were glad not to be trapped in a metal box. Before reaching the Île de Ré, we had to cross a bridge, and as intimidating as it was, it was fairly easy to cycle on. Not only thanks to the incline, but also thanks to the separate bike lane, which kept the toll-paying cars off our backs.
The island itself has a fantastic infrastructure and thus many tourists were also on the road by bike. Unfortunately a lot of them were "Fair-weather-Sunday-drivers", sucht that Idas reflexes were put the test. The flora consisted of pine trees, whose smell reminded Ida of Brandenburg and Tilman of the mountains in Oaxaca.
To proceed with Holgers "Les-plus-beaux-villages"-challenge, we visited Ars-en-Ré as well as La Flotte but the villages in between were definitely as beautiful.
After some refreshment and a power-boost by macarons we crossed to back to La Rochelle over the bridge. There we could stay with Bernard and his with - a contact Bernard provided. They welcomed us with a delicious risotto and offered us to sleep in the trailer instead of our tent. In the morning we had a cosy breakfast and then got started again, because there was much ahead of us. First of all we stopped at the next supermarket to refill our supplies. But the LIDL was closed! And we realized it was Sunday (17.09.)! Some supermarkets were open anyway but just til noon and we hurried towards Intermarché, which was opened for another 45 minutes. There's a rub in it, the shortest way between us and there involved a ferry crossing. Because of uncertainty about the crossing times, we decided to take the 6km detour over the bridge over La Charente. This path was steeper than necessary and was just equipped with a narrow bike lane. However we just made it in time and could plunder the sweets section.More relaxed was the way to Moeze, where we could climb the church tower thanks to the Journee du Patrimoine. The reward was a great view over the vast marshland, which characterizes the region.
Afterwards we enjoyed the organ concert for a while, which was a day-long event, and than proceeded to Brouage - a very old village with a very special architectural style, which was the home of the founders of Quebec.
Just one "Plus-beaux-village" a day is not enough for us, so we drove to Mornac-sur-Seudre. Thats a small place with a lot of handicraft businesses - in principle nice for strolling around but not especially interesting for us.
So we tried a third village: Talmont-sur-Gironde. Before the arrival, Ida decided, without prior warning, to inspect the gravel on the road thoroughly. The kneewarmer protected from dirt and the result was just a graze. Like a gymnast I managed an excellent dismount with E-grade 9.8 and managed to get away unharmed.
After a short integrity test of our limbs and the bike Idas investigation had to end and we reached our aim without further studies. This was definetely the most beautiful village of the day. If you should visit this area, an excursion is worthwhile!
Now just 20km remained to the ferry. Relaxed we drove on, because there were still 1.5h to the departure. In Royan, however, I realized that the ferry in this season leaves at 20:15 instead of 20:45! And so we went the extra mile and managed the remaining 3-4km with 30km/h on average. Just in time we reached the harbour and could arrive in Le Verdon this evening.
On the other side we followed the EV1 (in France known as Vélodyssée) til we arrived at a Camping Municipal. The reception was no longer occupied but someone told us thats its fine to pay the next day. Soon the tent was pitched and a eventful day ended.
On Monday (19.09.) we started early because there were many kilometers ahead of us and we did not want to arrivee to late. The reception was still unoccupied...
We rode to the next supermarket: an Aldi. Probably because there are so many German tourists around in summer. Accordingly, the village was deserted now in the after-season. Ida jumped into the store and came out again a few minutes later with a huge grin: She had found a melon. After it was devoured by almost solely one person (we don't point at people!) we continued. The day turned out to be rather monotoneous. Even the straight ways in the beginning of our tour seem diverse in comparison. In 10 to 15km segments we drove straight ahead between pine trees, turned by 5° and repeated. As example, two pictures: The second was taken next to the tower that is visible in the distance in the first.
After 60 or a bit more km finally something interesting happened. The path was blocked and smoke was in the air. The woman, that stopped next to us, mentioned that the flames were still visible yesterday. This meant to switch to the street, were a big traffic jam was building up. So we struggled with the cars for 2km to the next village and could follow the EV1 again. It seems important to Andernos-les-Bains to place as many crossings with streets as possible to the bike lane.
Somewhen, not to early and not to late, we arrived in Sylvie in Gujan-Mestras. After 4 days we finally could take a shower and were adequately supplied with Bolognese before falling happily to bed.
On Tuesday (20.09.) we slept late and pottered around the bike. We had received a package with repair parts and thus Fermi (the name our bike received) got Marathon Plus tires again.Afterwards I had to do a bit ringing around, because my health insurance promised since early August to call back. In the evening we cooked for the entire family and so a physically relaxing and beaurocratically exhausting day went by. Similarly relaxing, but less beaurocratic, was Wednesday (21.09.). We slept late again, had breakfast and continued towards the coast because we wanted to visit the largest dune in Europe, the Dune du Pilat! This time I was in front and Ida was navigating. A small change that helped to see the others perspective. Due to my style of driving Ida was screaming on the backseat and so I can just say: Navigation coud have been better!Even though the incredible size of the dune can't be put in pictures, we try it here:
In the evening, rested after a nap, we drove back towards 'home' and had another touristic sight on the list. Gujan-Mestras is a famous oyster farm and so we abandoned our usual luxery of eating in parking lots and tried in a small restaurant. While Ida fancied them somewhat, I have to admit: I am not really into it.
Thursday (22.09.) we had to say goodbye with a heavy heart. Afterwards we lay down in bed once more and slept another hour (but thats something you don't have to know). Somewhen around noon we left and brought a big package to the post office. The old new cloaks, a lot of Souvenirs (which is just the french word for memories) and presents were sent to Idas parents. Then we finally drove on... to the supermarket for shopping.
Around 1p.m. we got on the way and could test what our rested legs were cappable of. With 25km/h on average we sped over the plain and met Daniel, who was on his world tour. After a few kilometers and a break together our ways parted again. But we are sure that we will meet again.
Our day was more or less boring. At least we managed 125+km and for our efforts allowed ourselves a campsite, because the area of high risks for forest fires extended to Dax.
Friday (23.09.) was an exhausting day since we had to go up and down and up again, where neither was really fun. We had an intermediate goal ahead: Navarrenx. A last "plus-beau-village", before leavinge France for now. After a few rollercoaster-like-kilometers we arrived and... it was sobering. In our opinion not worth the detour.
At least the priest we talked to blessed us and we could just dodge a spontaneous marriage.
When we were ready to drive to our WarmShower hosts, the sky decided that this was the perfect moment for a shower. And so we struggled up the last hill with tired legs and soaked. On the way down into the valley we were stopped twice. The first time to give way for a cow herd. And directely afterwards a worried woman thought of us as lost pilgrims, because she never saw anyone on tour before. After many reassurances that we were not lost we were allowed to continue. Up again, to Anne-Marie and Jean, were we could shelter from the rain. After a warm shower that was better than any resuscitation measure we had fried potatoes with bacon and cheese.
Very delicious and just right!
And as a small foretaste to the article next week: Here an outlook to the next morning:
